In addition to its simple installation, this manual clutch conversion kit kills the competition in two ways. The hose is made with an extruded PTFE core and a stainless steel wire braided cover to reduce volumetric expansion, giving you the reliability and safety you demand. Using this manual clutch conversion kit from ISR, you can quickly transition your Nissan transmission from automatic shifting controls to your control. Used this line to replace my factory clutch line as it was loosing pressure.
Did not look long enough in the picture but had plenty of length to spare to run from master to slave cylinder on g40 4 speed transmission and all hardware threaded perfectly. No leaks and holds pressure now. Should be ready to go when I swap in w59 transmission from a Tacoma soon since all locations stay the same. Only complaint is the color. Cant find anything to complain about on this line. Installed during a 5 speed conversion, it was the perfect length for my s13, easy to install, and works incredibly well.
Got rid of the stock metal line and dampner box. Just got my clutch line in today and took me about 5 easy minutes to install. The length is more than enough on my SR I have it 4 out of 5 just because I didn't bleed the line yet to feel the pedal. I would definitely buy again. Decent price and just the right amount of length you need. Purchased for a zx as a hardline replacement. Works great, made the clutch a lot stiffer. Installs in minor minutes! Put an SR20 in my left hand drive sx that was once an automatic car, reached perfectly with enough slack to hang it properly on the firewall!
Would definitely buy it again. It looks good, perfect length, even for auto to manual swap like mine was for. I used it on a sc slave cylinder for my 1jz swap and it even was the same thread pitch! Visit Enjuku Racing Parts on Facebook. Visit Enjuku Racing Parts on Instagram. Call Enjuku Racing Parts. Once all six bolts are off, wiggle and pull the flywheel and it should come right off. I will post a link or two so you can see different methods.
Once I tried it like this, it came out without a problem. But feel free to try whatever method suits you best! This isn't very difficult as you just need a drill or angle grinder and some bits. You have to make a total of three holes in order to mount these up. Nissan made it easy for us, and left the template so all you have to do is pull back the carpet and locate where the template. Picture below. Leave it plugged in, just tuck it somewhere out of the way.
It comes off with one bolt, save that bolt, you will be using it to mount you're clutch bracket. Now for the three holes. First I found a drill bit just slightly bigger than the template hole, and drilled the two outer holes. The third hole took me longer just because I didn't have the proper tool s to make that big of a hole easily. I just used my biggest bit and kept hacking at it until it was big enough. Then I used a file to smooth it out.
Just mount the master cylinder up and have a friend inside car to pop on the pedal bracket. Screw on the two nuts in the engine bay for the master cylinder finger tight, then get inside the car and mount the clutch pedal bracket. So grab the bolt you had set aside and put it in to hold the bracket up. Now make sure all bolts are tightened. You should look like this now I used an angle grinder to cut the pedal with no problem.
Part A: For the reverse lights, all you do is find the row of three plugs on the back of the passenger engine bay fuse box. Now, look at the second plug down. Part B: To make the car start, we have to trick it into thinking it is in P Park at all times. To do this, locate the plug that is underneath the row of three you were just looking at. It is literally underneath the fuse box. Tape up the exposed wires you snipped.
Once you jumper them together, secure them nicely and tape them up so the weather can't get in. Just simply plug back in the piece you just jumpered and you're officially done with the wiring. I lined up the bushing and tapped it in with a rubber mallet until it was flush with the outer lip of the crank.
I also used a socket the size of the bushing to get it in right. Just make sure not to force it in crooked, it will break pretty easily. This goes between the engine and transmission and it aligns on dowels. Make sure to double check all six bolts, you do not want a loose flywheel! Before you install the clutch break out the Brakleen brake cleaner and clean the flywheel real good.
You want a clean surface for the clutch disc to grab. Using the alignment tool mount the clutch disc on the flywheel.
Mount up the clutch pressure plate and put in all the bolts. Finger tighten all of them evenly then torque in a criss cross pattern just like the flywheel bolts.
It doesn't really take much. Replace the throwout bearing on your transmission with a new one. Don't skimp on the simple stuff. You don't want to drop the transmission in a month due to a stupid bearing! Slip the old TOB off of the fork it's mounted on and then you can hammer off the old bearing from the carrier since the old bearing is garbage. Grease the splines the TOB goes on Lithium grease works.
To install the new bearing place a 2x4 over the new bearing on the carrier and hammer it on. Just make sure to put it on straight, don't bend bearing! Once pressed on check to see that the bearing is still functional. Install the carrier back on with the fork opposite of removal.
Before we install the transmission remove the shifter. To remove just the shifter remove the C clip holding it in. Now we can get the transmission situated underneath the car. So now we need to install the transmission into the pilot bushing.
This is a pain in the ass and pretty much just comes down to trial and error. It took me and my two friends about an hour to get it in.
We tried using jacks to slowly raise it up and into position but in the end it was just easier to lift it up and into place. After a tip from a friend we jacked up the front of the motor oil pan with a jack and block of wood to give ourselves a better angle at the hole. We lifted it so the starter hump was somewhat facing the ground and turned it as we moved it up. Once you do get it mated on there don't let go and get a few bolts in to hold it on! Put a jack under the rear of transmission to hold it up once you get some bolts in.
Also, make sure you lower the front of the engine back down. Reinstall the Starter and reconnect the wiring to it. Jack up the tail of your transmission and install the manual cross member. Secure it with the same four bolts as the automatic cross member. Once it is all secure make sure the speed sensor is plugged in and the reverse light wiring you did earlier is connected to the reverse switch on the transmission.
Tuck and secure all wiring that is hanging loose. First I mated it to the transmission, then installed the middle mount two bolts then finally secured it to the driveshaft 4 bolts. Before you reinstall the shifter, put your transmission fluid in through the shifter hole. The manual transmission takes approximately 2. Do not use GL-5 rated gear oil, it will eat away at yellow metals your synchros are yellow metal.
Reinstall shifter with C-clip. Install shifter dust boot then rubber upper boot with finisher plate. Then Center console, Shift boot, and finally shift knob of your choice. At this point, reinstall everything you removed or moved in your engine bay and make sure everything is how it was before you started working on it.
Run your clutch line from your master cylinder to the slave cylinder on the transmission. I opted for a stainless steel auto to manual conversion line from DIF to avoid the hassle of installing the hard line It eliminated the stock clutch line and the useless stock clutch "dampener"; Makes bleeding the clutch line a lot easier.
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